F.A.Q.
What is the difference
between 'Full' & 'Limited' registration? Full Registration: Dogs with Full Registration
privileges can compete in all AKC/UKC events, and their offspring can be registered with the AKC/UKC.
Limited Registration: Dogs with Limited AKC Registration privileges are meant to be altered, and are allowed
to compete in all AKC events except Conformation shows(judging for breeding stock)i.e.; (dog shows). Dogs with Limited
UKC Registration privileges are allowed to compete in all UKC events except normal Conformation classes (dog shows)
UKC does have a NL class for altered dogs which you can earn a Champion title in just like the regular classes. Puppies produced
by a dog with Limited Registration are not eligible for AKC/UKC registration. Owners should know that the Limited Registration
status has no bearing on a dog's potential to be an excellent representative of its breed, a wonderful pet, and a standout
participant in most AKC events. When it comes to being a great competitor or just a lifelong friend, a dog with Limited Registration
has no limits at all.
How do I go about getting one of your puppies? Please email, Messenger us and/or fill out our adoption questionnaire(located
on the available page, and the contact us page) and we will review it and contact you and we will go from there.
We personally, do not raise puppies to sell to the public, they are for our hobby but we will adopt out/rehome ones that
did not meet our strict show standard, and we will rehome young adults and adults on occasion. No puppies can be adopted until
after they have been critiqued for hobby showing. Do not ask to put a deposit for 'pick' of the litter, a certain, color,
or sex please. We can only adopt/rehome what we have available.
If I just want a pet, why should I buy or adopt one
from an established hobby or professional breeder and not from a pet store or from an ad in the paper? Whether the puppy you buy or adopt is to be a companion for your family or a show
dog, he or she must meet the same criteria: good health and good temperament. When you acquire one from a reputable
breeder you will be aquiring from a person who has checked the health and temperament of both the mother and the father
of the puppy. This breeder will also have screened his or her breeding stock for those genetic diseases which can be clinically
tested. The puppy will be the results of a carefully planned breeding. Pet store puppies are shipped in from puppy mills,
that is, facilities which mass produce several breeds on a large scale, or from the brokers who handle the shipment of these
puppies to the pet stores. The puppies have not been raised as socialized pets but as a mass-produced commercial commodity.
They are bred for profit. Health in such operations merely means getting them to market alive, while quality is nonexistent.
Most reputable hobbyists/breeders do not over advertise. They usual bred for themselves/waiting lists. They are knowledgeable,
thoughtful breeders who, breed to produce quality dogs, not to mass produce a cash crop. Hobbyists do not breed
for profit.
What should I expect from an experienced hobbyist
or pro breeder? An experienced breeder will have plenty of questions for you and your family (home, lifestyle,
why this breed, dog ownership history, etc.). The breeder is only trying to make sure that you and the puppy are well matched!
The breeder will provide you with a pedigree, health testing results from the parents, sales/adoption/rehoming receipt and
a general &/or health contract(s), feeding instructions, shots/wormings history. Expect to spend a few hours learning
about the breed, puppy care, etc. AKC and/or UKC registration papers for a full or limited registration will also be provided,
depending on whether or not the puppy is being placed as a "show puppy". Many breeders will not release papers until
proof of altering (spaying/neutering) has been provided to them. The contract will spell out any health guarantees and
spay/neuter requirements. Most importantly, you should expect your breeder to answer your questions fully and honestly now
and as your puppy grows. If the chemistry isn't right, think before you buy/adopt; an ethical breeder is responsible for each
puppy bred for life.
I just want a Pet. Why do I need to talk to a breeder and why are dogs from breeders so expensive to
purchase or adopt? "Just a pet" encompasses an awful lot! You want your pet to be healthy right??!!- no crippling
hip problems, no potentially fatal heart defects, no chronic skin and ear problems, good eyes, strong heart, and most of all
- you want that temperament that you've heard so much about! There are no guarantees in dog breeding, but as with most other
things, a person's skills improve with experience and study. A responsible hobby breeder knows that breeding means much more
than putting two intact dogs together and waiting 9 weeks for puppies. It involves carefully researching pedigrees, screening
for defects, proper care of the dam (mother) while she's pregnant and skillful handling of the new puppies during the critical
first 8-12+weeks of life. Finding a responsible breeder who has become a student of the breed(s) and has the level of knowledge
necessary to make good decisions significantly raises your chances of finding the healthy, stable pet you are looking for.
As far as expense, you are adding a new member to your family for the next 10-15 years. Now is not the time to penny pinch!
The breeder you are seeking will have considerable expense involved in the selection, raising, competition and screening of
their dogs. They will rehome a dog for a price that covers their expenses incurred to insure you are getting the best they
can provide. A pet store puppy often costs as much, if not more, then a well bred one and a "bargain" puppy from Craigslist
etc., is frequently NO bargain when you take into account the possible costs involved with serious medical or temperament
problems. When you divide the purchase/adoption price of your puppy into the many long wonderful years you will have with
it, you will see you are not spending... but investing... next to nothing, much less then that daily Starbucks adds up to
in a year!
What are the main differences between a male and a female? Should I get a male or female? The
breeds we raise are not breeds that have significant advantages in one gender or another--the males are just as good
with children and other pets as the females, are as easy to housebreak, and are not more aggressive. The experienced breeder
will be able to advise you which puppy's temperament meets your needs--they don't want to put the go-go-go puppy with a retired
couple who want a couch potato, nor the quiet puppy in the home with 4 children and a position waiting on the soccer team!
The fewer requirements you place as to color and gender, the easier it will be for breeders to locate just the right dog for
you. Temperamentally, we feel there is little difference between the sexes in our chosen breeds, this is not true of
all breeds, but we have found it to be with ours. The only real difference we have noticed is the males are mellower
and more loving/cuddle bugs, females tend to be a bit more independent. Both are equally intelligent and affectionate.
Both are excellent with children, and both make excellent companions. Problems of aggressiveness, which males of other breeds
may exhibit, should not occur in the Shelties, or Rats, but may occur in the Corgis if you have more then one intact
male. We require altering of your pet, so you should never have to experience this anyways. Sex-related behavior such as mounting
and marking may be exhibited by some males, particularly if other males are present or if the male has been used for breeding.
Neutering a male before a year of age will not only help to alleviate these problems, but will also eliminate the risk of
testicular cancer. Since there is no responsible reason NOT to spay a bitch (unless she was bought from a serious hobby breeder
specifically for showing or breeding), the estrous cycle in the female need not be a consideration.”
What equipment do I need to have when I bring my
puppy home? Crate(s), food and water bowls, exercise pen or fenced in yard (puppy-proofed), toys, rectal
thermometer, collar and leash, grooming equipment (such as nail clippers or dremel, comb (for the shelties and corgis) and
brush, toothbrush and toothpaste, shampoo), dog food (follow breeder's recommendation), clean-up tools (pooper scoops, plastic
bags, etc.) baby gate(s). The crate provides a "den", or quiet place for the puppy to sleep and to go when no one is supervising
him. Most dogs will seek out their crate for rest and quiet time. Crates also protect your dog from unwanted behavior and
accidents, and they make riding in the car safer for everyone. Fresh water should be available at all times, and the puppy
should have his own food bowl. The breeder should send your puppy home with a starter supply of the puppy's food. Follow feeding
instructions carefully, increasing quantities as the puppy grows. Housebreaking the new puppy is easier with an exercise pen,
available at many pet stores or through pet supply catalogs, or a fenced in yard. Remember to puppy proof the yard, small
puppies can fit through even smaller holes or gaps in fencing. Be especially careful with swimming pools; puppies or adult
dogs can easily fall into a pool and drown. Toys provide mental and physical exercise. Hard rubber bones, balls (too large
to swallow), rubber rings and tug toys are popular. Avoid anything that can be chewed into small pieces. Never give cooked
animal bones, as these may splinter and cause severe illness or death. A rectal thermometer is important, as your veterinarian
will often ask about a temperature if your puppy is ill. A dog's normal temperature is between 101 to 102 degrees. Start the
puppy off with a soft, narrow collar and a four to six foot leash. Do not leave the collar on the puppy when he is alone,
as the collar can become caught and strangle the puppy. Remember to increase the size of the collar as the puppy grows. Daily
grooming is important to the puppy's health and education. Rat Terriers are an easy to groom breed; a brushing with a soft
brush once or twice a week will remove any dead hair or dander, for the most part though, they are wash and wear. Without
proper brushing a Sheltie's coat can mat, although the Pembroke coat does not mat, a daily "once over" with a comb and brush
will keep his coat shiny and keep shedding to a minimum. Once a week nail care is essential. Ask the breeder to show you how
to clip or grind nails. Teach your puppy to allow weekly dental care, using canine toothbrush and canine toothpaste. When
bathing your puppy, use a non-detergent human shampoo (baby shampoo) or a specially formulated dog shampoo. When exercising
your puppy, be a good citizen and clean up after him. Pooper scoops are readily available at pet stores. Plastic sandwich
bags work equally well and can be easily tossed into your garbage can. Puppy-proof your home. Baby gates are an inexpensive
way to confine the puppy during housebreaking. Wires, chemicals in toilet bowls, heat ducts, garbage cans, house plants, antifreeze,
chocolate, onions, represent just a few of the hazards present. Never leave a puppy unattended. It only takes a minute for
a puppy to find something potentially lethal.
I work, how can I properly raise a puppy?
Working should not prohibit you from raising a puppy, however a puppy does demand extra time and attention, you will need
to make provisions to care for your puppy. Caring for a puppy brings responsibilities and obligations that need to be considered.
A puppy turns into a dog. This puppy will need to be cared for on a daily basis for the next 10-15 years, this will become
a family member, (living/breathing) not an item or thing that is disposable. The first thing many experienced owners recommend
is to bring your puppy home at the time you have an extended vacation, so you can spend quality time with the new dog. It
is recommended that you have a trusted friend or neighbor check in with the pet regularly and make sure the dog has access
to food and water. A puppy needs the following: · A puppy needs to relieve himself every 2-4 hours, until they are
at least 6 months old. Puppies generally defecate 2-4 times a day and urinate even more. · You will need to get up during
the night to take your puppy out. An easy way to figure out how many hours a puppy can be expected to control their bladder
is to take the puppy’s age in months and add 1. For example a 4-month-old puppy will need to go out every 5 hours. ·
House training a puppy can take at least 6 months. With a daily time commitment of every 2-4 hours. · A puppy will benefit
from a socialization class at around 12-14 weeks old and an obedience class after 6 months. Even people who adopt older rescue
dogs can benefit from a class to help them teach the dog what is expected of him. · Puppies require a minimum of three
20-minute low-impact aerobic play sessions per day and older dogs need regular exercise on a daily basis. A tired puppy is
a calm puppy. If the time constraints of raising a puppy seem too much, an older rescue dog may better fit your needs.
I have children, how are your dogs/your breeds with children? Generally, they are
usually very good with children, if the kids are not too aggressive and are considerate of the dog. Early socialization at
the breeders' homes and early basic training also help. A lot of our puppies/dogs are raised in home with children. Our
chosen breeds can be wonderful family dogs, however parents need to be aware of a few precautions. First and foremost,
children need to be taught how to interact with a dog. Each year many children are victims of dog bites and this can be due
to ongoing mistreatment of the dog by children or because the dog and family were not properly matched by the breeder or rescue.
A responsible breeder or rescue organization will make sure that any puppy they place with children is temperamentally suited
for an active family. Many dogs become homeless due to the fact that an adult has added a dog to the family for the wrong
reasons: As a gift to a child with the expectation that the child will be the primary caretaker. To play with the
children and keep them occupied, giving the adults more free time, without plans to supervise the interactions. Adding
a dog to the family can be wonderful, but adults must understand the responsibilities that are involved. The feeding, grooming,
exercising, formal obedience lessons, etc are the entire family’s responsibility but must be supervised and coordinated
by an adult. Being the primary caretaker for a dog is not a job that can be left to the children. You should be certain
that your busy life leaves time for an active dog before you purchase or adopt one.
How are your dogs/your breeds with other pets? Most love other dogs and cats. All
of our puppies/dogs are very good with all our other animals, including our livestock. They will herd the goats, pigs, chickens
if asked or even given the chance lol, but are never vicious. They adore our cats. However each dog is different and some
relish time with another dog and others are more solitary. However, even if the dog is more solitary it is VERY important
to socialize your puppy when they are young and continue to do so throughout their lives. Socializing means exposing your
puppy to a variety of other puppies and dogs, people, places, things, sights, smells and sounds. Many breeders have cats and
other pets who have close relationships with their dogs, and others make an effort to introduce their puppies to other species
during their early socialization. Common sense is needed in introducing the puppy to a small cage pet so that no one gets
nipped, and Pup understands that the ferret or bunny is a pet and not something to be "dispatched" esp. with a Rat Terrier
& remember that Corgis are farm dogs, and ratting is one of the jobs! Corgis living with other dogs, especially larger
breeds, generally become the "boss" and herd the others around (sometimes to their annoyance). They are also happy to herd
up errant children, especially if they're running, and the parents must be consistent in correcting this behavior from the
beginning to prevent a later problem with "nipping heels." It may be cute in a baby puppy, but a pinch on the heel or calf
from a larger and still enthusiastic herder hurts!
Are they easy to train? Most are generally easy to train; however training takes time and repetition.
It is highly suggested that you sign up for an obedience class. Methods have changed throughout the years and training in
general will help to bond you and your dog. Learning how to communicate with your dog will ensure a successful relationship.
they respond very well to positive reinforcement of good behavior. Use treats and praise to train, never harsh punishments.
What do I need to learn/know
about crate training? The crate provides
a “den” and a quiet place for the puppy or young dog to sleep and get away when it needs to be alone. The crate
can also be used to safely, transport the dog. Many people feel that crate training also helps with housebreaking in that
the crate is a place the dog will naturally want to protect and keep clean.
What about spaying and neutering? Many reputable breeders, adopt/sell "pet" quality puppies with
the agreement that the animal will be neutered. These puppies are sometimes offered at a lower price than the "show prospect"
puppies, even though they have the same excellent pedigree and have received the same care and attention. The basic disposition
and temperament of your dog WILL NOT be changed by removing his or her reproductive capability. Neutering a male can make
him more tolerant of other males, but neutering will not, by itself, turn your dog into an obese, lazy animal . . .that is
the result of excess food and insufficient exercise. Benefits of spaying include not having to worry about accidental breeding,
the stress and inconvenience of confining the bitch in season, risky "mismating" shots, and unwanted puppies. The spayed bitch
will not develop uterine infections or tumors of the reproductive system, as do so many older unspayed bitches. The American
Kennel Club permits spayed and neutered dogs to participate in all phases of obedience, tracking, field work, agility and
junior handling, but not in most conformation classes.” The United Kennel Club allows all of the same plus they offer
an 'altered' conformation class at many Conformation dog shows, they also offer weight pull, which The Rat terriers excel
at and the Corgis are getting into!
How much space do they need? How much exercise do they need? Our breeds are energetic dogs,
bred to spend long hours out herding/ratting. Exercise requirements will depend largely on the age and condition of the dog.
Young, healthy dogs will require several aerobically paced walks or interactive play sessions per day. Space need not be a
major factor, as it is generally considered a myth that “all dogs need room to run”. Most dogs left alone, outdoors,
will nap rather than exercise. Our dogs require mental stimulation, as well as regular exercise; if your life-style
is sedentary, or you don't have a few hours a day to interact with your dog, a herding/ratting breed may not be the best choice.
Will my dog make a good outdoor dog? Our dogs/breeds are not intended to
live strictly as an outside dog as they are very people orientated and are miserable being separated from the family they
love! If you are not interested in keeping your dog indoors most of the time, these are not the breeds for you.
A lonely dog may bark incessantly, dig up the back yard or continuously escape to roam the neighborhood
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